We hitched a ride and soon were back on the trail in the fading light of a very long day. We had been on the trail for nearly eleven hours and although we were well fortified with our restaurant food, we were not in bed yet. As soon as we reentered the trail I sensed that this was going to be the most challenging section of the whole trip. Not only was it now dark enough that we needed to break out our headlamps, the trail was nearly straight up and a jumble of rocks the size of suitcases. I had the more powerful light so I went first. Scrambling up what I later dubbed "The Devil's Chute" would have been difficult in the daylight without fifty pounds on my back, but in the dark with my pack trying to pull me backwards, well, it was not my idea of a good time. Climbing by flashlight is a very interesting experience. It focused my attention to the very spot that needed my attention. All else was in darkness. It was so steep, a couple of times I had to reach out with my hands to pull myself up. Normally quiet when we hiked, out of nervousness I began to talk to myself and to the trail, using not very kind words. Not being able to see beyond where the beam of my light shone, it was hard to tell how long the chute was. It seemed like an eternity at the time. We finally did top out on a ridge and continued to hike for about ten minutes before we came to Clarendon Lookout. From there the light of the valley below twinkled in the darkness. It was as stunning as the lookout we had experienced earlier in the day but with a whole different feel. We turned off our lights and gazed out into the inky darkness with its splatter of pinpoints of light. After a quiet reflection of what we had just done and were now contemplating, we headed on our way. The walking was easy now and I relaxed into the softness of the night. It was quite warm and the air was filled with the hum of insects. It gave me the feeling of incredible energy flowing all around me. As wonderful as our daytime hiking was, this was very special. I knew it would be a long time before I experienced anything quite like this again. A couple of times I felt as though we had lost the trail only to spot the reassuring white "AT" blazes on the trees telling us we were doing just fine. In the distance I could hear two barred owls calling to each other through the darkness. Their distinctive calls made the woods seem not so lonely. We finally found the shelter, expecting to have to be quiet so as not to disturb the other residents as it was past 9:00, only to find it empty. Bellies full, all we have to do now is spread out our beds and go to sleep. It is now thirteen hours since we had set out from Big Branch Shelter. This is my last full day with Laura. It is certainly one I will never forget.

Saturday September 9, 2006 Norumbega 11:00 P.M. Distance hiked today: 4.4 miles; total distance hiked: 58 miles

I am home now. My amazing adventure with Laura has come to an end. After yesterday's incredible saga, today was very simple. We hiked for two hours, found the road we had picked for our rendezvous with Julie and sat down to wait for her arrival. It took her about forty-five minutes to find us beyond the time we had arranged. In that time Laura and I just sat and rested. There was no lengthy processing of what we had shared, just a quiet sharing of each other's company. When Julie's familiar VW appeared on the road, we stood up (very slowly on my part) and greeted her with hugs and kisses. How can I summarize what this experience has meant to me? In truth, I can't. I will have to live with it for a while to sort is all out. When Laura had gotten her resupply of food and some new gear, said good-bye to us and once again headed back onto the trail, this time without me, I cried. When we got underway, she called us from the top of Killington in a thunderstorm from the shelter there and my heart swelled with emotion once again. Even though I now have an image of what she has to deal with, I was still filled with anxiety mixed with admiration and love for our quietly bold daughter.

Postscript

Laura finished the two hundred seventy-five mile Long Trail on September 24. She did the through hike in twenty-three days. Julie and I were there to welcome her where the trail ends on the border with Canada, glad to have her back with us safe and sound. She is now in Guatemala working for a nonprofit called Safe Passage. We plan to go down and have Thanksgiving with her. She will be returning home in December for the holiday before heading out in January to go to South America to work on a series of organic farms there.